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preparing your tropicals for winter indoorsby Barb ArnoldSoon that familiar chill in the air will let us know fall is officially here. The garden is slowing down and frost isn’t far away. We’ve spent so much time, energy, and money on some of our tender and tropical outdoor plants that we just can’t let the winter take them away from us—we’ll have to bring them indoors. Most tropical plants can be left out until the temperature drops as low as 45 degrees, though this does shock them a bit and can cause some leaf drop; nevertheless, exposing them to these temperatures is a good way to rid them of some insects. You will want to check your plants for any remaining insects before bringing them inside for the winter. Here are some of the most common tropical plants grown in the garden by Ohioans and some tips on getting them to survive winter in the house. Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata cv. Bostoniensis) These ferns enjoy our humid summers and look great in hanging baskets. They are native to Florida – think humid forests and swamps. As the air in our homes is dry in winter, we must make the air more humid around the fern. This can be done with a pebble tray filled with water or by regularly misting the fern. I have found keeping a Boston fern alive for the winter to be messy, so I place the plant on a big sheet of plastic. Not only does this help keep leaves off the floor, it helps maintain moisture levels. Tropical Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Grown as either standard trees or shrubs, these flowering plants will drop leaves a couple of weeks after entering the house. Before bringing them inside, prune off one-third of the plant to help with leaf drop. Place your hibiscus in a very bright sunny window. New leaves will soon start to emerge; these leaves will be accustomed to the lower light levels in the house and next spring will be the first to fall off when the plant goes back outside. Banana (Musa) Treat banana plants like tender bulbs to help them survive the winter. Start by cutting off the leaves at the stem until you have a long spear-like plant structure, thereby taking off weight and making it easier to move. Then dig up the rootball and place it in a large pot or milk crate. Store it in the basement or a similar location—don’t leave it in an unheated garage or shed as these areas will reach 32 degrees, freezing the rootball. Over the winter, water the rootball once a month; in April start watering once a week. Canna (Canna) Cannas are as lovely as all get-out in the summer garden, but it takes a bit of work to over-winter them. If you have more than one kind of canna, be sure to label them. Before, or even after a frost, cut the stems to about four to six inches high (I do it just before a frost to avoid working in slimy, wet leaves later). Carefully dig or lift the rootball with a garden fork or a spade and let the rootball dry out a bit, leaving some garden dirt as a protectant. Next place them in a paper bag or a milk crate and bring them in for the winter. Place them in a cool basement or closet where the temperature never gets below 32 degrees. Dahlia (Dahlia) Dahlias, as tender tubers, cannot survive Ohio’s cold winters, so it is necessary to dig them up to save them for use in the garden next year. If you have more than one type of dahlia, mark them for identification later. One week before you plan to dig them, cut the plants down, leaving six-inches worth of stem; this will help produce new sprouts on the tuber, making them easier to divide in the spring. To begin, dig an approximately 12-inch circle around the stem and carefully lift out the tubers, leaving the stem intact. Place the tubers in a cool, dry place for a couple of days to dry them out, then put them into a cardboard or wood box and cover them with sawdust, sand, or vermiculite. Keep the box in a cool, dry place where the temperature doesn’t get below 40 degrees. Check bimonthly to ensure the tubers still have moisture; if not, give them a bit of water to drink. A Few More Tips for Tropicals Remember that the light and humidity are different in the house during winter, causing leaf drop on all plants. Over the winter, plants are not really growing and therefore won’t need as much water; they also don’t need fertilizer this time of year. Plants are adaptable to our home conditions—we just need to help them out a bit. Follow these steps and, once the danger of frost has passed, you will be able to triumphantly return your successfully wintered plants back to the garden. You must be logged in to leave a comment. Click here to login or register. |
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